"On an August evening, David Guas hands two plates of pan-roasted, double-thick pork chops with shallot and Creole mustard sauce to the tasting panel seated before him and waits for their reaction.
He’s in the kitchen of his McLean home and his critics are his sons, Spencer, 19, and Kemp, 21. The dish, served with fennel slaw flecked with tarragon and dill, is one he’s testing for Neutral Ground Bar + Kitchen, the full-service American bistro he’ll open in McLean this spring—if the gods of permitting and construction comply."